February mini break – Day 1

After three named storms in less than a week and enough rain to turn my garden into something resembling a soggy sponge pudding last Saturday turned out to be glorious and 8.30 that morning saw me leaving home for another weekend in North Wales, with a pitch pre-booked at the holiday park where I stayed in December. With the weather being so nice I decided to take advantage of it and visit a couple of new-to-me places on the way there, and my first stop was at St. Winefred’s Chapel and Well near the small town of Holywell.
Although the chapel is open daily to visitors the door is actually kept locked so I had to get the key from the nearby visitor centre, and once in there I had the place to myself. Dating from the beginning of the 16th century, with a stone floor and just one stained glass window, the chapel was restored in 1976 and is very simply furnished with just an altar, lectern and a few rows of chairs.
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Expecting St. Winefred’s Well to be a small square hole in the ground with a flagstone surround, or maybe a small stone trough set in a wall, I was more than a little surprised when I saw it. Situated directly underneath the chapel water from a natural spring bubbled up into a large star-shaped stone basin beneath an elaborately vaulted ceiling and surrounded by carved stone columns. Believed for centuries to have healing properties water from the well flows into an outdoor pool where pilgrims can bathe, although it did look rather murky and according to the young couple who were actually in there it was also very cold.
At one side of the pool was an attractive little chapel and next door a couple of small changing rooms, while at the other side of the pool a nearby building housed a museum although this was temporarily closed. The whole place was quite fascinating and I could have spent much longer there so I may very well make a return later in the year.
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The next stop on my list was down the road at the ruined Basingwerk Abbey just off the A548 at Greenfield. Founded in 1131 and extensively remodelled in the 13th century Basingwerk is still a significant religious site and it’s also the starting point of the North Wales Pilgrim’s Way, a long-distance walking route stretching south all the way to Bardsey, the ‘Island of 20,000 Saints’ 2 miles off the Llyn Peninsula. More details and photos of Basingwerk Abbey and St. Winefred’s Well and Chapel will be on a couple of future dedicated posts.
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From Basingwerk it was only a short 2-mile drive to Llanerch-y-Mor and the derelict Duke of Lancaster, a ship taken out of service in 1979 and abandoned several years later. I’ve photographed it from one side on previous occasions so this time I wanted to see if I could get it from the other side but a high security fence and even higher hedges prevented any sort of a decent view.
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My fourth and final stop was made more by accident than planned. Friend Eileen had forewarned me that there were roadworks causing delays along part of the road I would be driving along to get to where I was staying so I made a detour to avoid them and realised I would be passing close to Dyserth Waterfall which I had never previously been to, so it was a good opportunity to go and see it.
The River Ffyddion rises 4.5 miles to the east of Dyserth village and is joined a mile away by water from a spring called Ffynnon Asa. After falling some 70 feet over the waterfall the river makes its way westwards and joins the River Clwyd to the west of Rhuddlan. A few yards from the main waterfall was a smaller one and between the two was a rather waterlogged cave cut into the rock; there was no clue to its significance though there was a ‘danger, keep out’ notice near the entrance.
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The spray from the main waterfall was quite substantial and with the sunshine it created quite a bright rainbow at one side of the bridge. Although their history is unknown the two massive walls to the left of the falls could be medieval and possibly built to support a water wheel which would have been driven by water diverted from above the waterfall. The steps between the walls were quite steep and led to an even steeper path which gave me a good view towards the sea and continued over the hill, taking me into woodland which invited more exploration, but I didn’t want to be too late getting to where I was staying so I retraced my steps back to the waterfall and the car park.
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Checking in at the camp site reception there seemed to be some confusion as to which pitch I was on. I’d booked the pitch I’d had on my previous stay but someone had allocated me the next one to it which was apparently occupied, however after much faffing about I was finally given the pitch I’d booked in the first place and I was free to go round and get parked up on it. Once I was settled in I rang Eileen and arranged to call round an hour or so later, and I spent a lovely evening until quite late in her company along with her hubby and Tilly the cockapoo, which just nicely rounded off what had been a really good day.

31 thoughts on “February mini break – Day 1

  1. Wow, wow and double wow. So much and THAT was just your journey to the campsite. The Chapel and Well are absolutely stunning – it would be easy to spend most of the day just investigating all the stonework, same with Basingwerk. I am already looking forward to your follow-up posts with more pictures of both.

    After all this rain the waterfall was spectacular – the Weather Gods were definitely on your side with the scheduling of this visit. And then time with Eileen . . . fabulous weekend ☺️

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    1. It was a great weekend all round Jayne and though it rained on Monday I was coming home anyway so I wasn’t too disappointed. St. Winefred’s Well and Basingwerk aren’t far from each other and both very easy to get to – maybe if you resume your coast-by-campervan trips you could visit them if one of your journeys were to take you that way. Oh, and there’s also a fabric and craft shop not far away 🙂 🙂

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        1. Gah!! Evil temptress – both of you!! I am trying not to buy more quilting supplies. Am already suffering badly from FABLE *

          *Fabric Acquisition Beyond Life Expectancy!

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  2. As you know I visited Holywell hospital last year but didn’t have time to visit St. Winefred’s Chapel and Well, something I really want to do and your photos want me to visit sooner rather than later. Unbelievably I have never heard of Basingwerk Abbey so that’s another place on my to visit list. Dyserth waterfalls is somewhere I’ve been to many times before especially on cross country runs from school, I couldn’t do that now haha. After all the rain we’ve had there was bound to be a good show for you and those walls do look like they supported a water wheel. It was a very pleasant evening spent with you apart from Tilly who wasn’t very welcoming. You certainly did drop lucky with the weather for your camping weekend.

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    1. I certainly did get lucky with the weather, it’s a shame it rained on Monday but I count getting two really good days out of three as a win, especially as I was able to explore some places I hadn’t been to before. The waterfall was quite something after all the rain, unfortunately the wind was blowing too much spray around for me to get really close with the camera

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  3. The well is beautiful. I wouldn’t have expected it to be quite so impressive either and it always feels so special to have a building to yourself.
    It must have been lovely to visit Eileen again. How was the Bara Brith? X

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  4. Visiting Eileen again was lovely and the bara brith is delicious spread with butter – I’m trying to make it last as long as I can as I know I can’t get it up here 😦

    The architecture around the well is truly stunning, after expecting a simple hole in the ground I was completely blown away by it all, and the chapel is simple but so very peaceful.

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  5. I’ve dashed past these places, well sort of, up on the main road on my way to St Asaph and Holyhead (for work) and Snowdonia (for pleasure). From your post it looks like I’ve missed out on some interesting sites – especially St Winifreds – I never realised exactly what was there!

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  6. Travelling the coast road throws up a few interesting places which can be missed by going along the A55. St. Winefred’s is definitely worth a visit if you’re ever round that way.

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  7. Sounds like an enjoyable journey with such a variety of stops along the way. I look forward to seeing more of that ruined abbey, but I think my favourite would be the derelict ship because it’s such an unusual sight and very interesting to photograph. You have some great shots despite the access challenges!

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  8. There’s quite a story behind that ship which I’ll post at a later date. The North Wales Coast Path skirts round that dock and though the ship is easy to see from one side it’s not very visible from the other. The drive down to the camp site was lovely and it was nice to be able to stop at a couple of places I hadn’t seen before.

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  9. I really enjoy your exploits in that neck of the woods Eunice. There are so many places that go unseen by many travellers – which can be an advantage to those of us who like a close-up view of life in peace 🙂 I particularly liked St Winefred’s.

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  10. I love seeking out unusual places and those a bit off the beaten track – I don’t know what the abbey and St. Winefred’s are like during the summer holiday season but both were very quiet when I was there. The architecture around the well is impressive and certainly not what I originally expected.

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  11. A lovely weekend away – so many lovely places to see 🙂 and lucky with the weather too – the photo of the derelict ship was interesting – what is to happen to it I wonder? just languish until completely rotted away? Off to see what I can find out!! thank you for sharing your jolly out x

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    1. The ship has been the subject of a lot of legal wrangling over the years Kate, I’ll be writing a full post on it soon with some photos I took a few years ago when it was covered in street art. The weather held up until Monday when the rain came back but I was coming home then anyway – altogether it was a lovely weekend and I really enjoyed it.

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  12. I actually loaded your blog with no hassles this morning. What a beautiful bevy of photos of some very interesting places. You could say I’m very envious & would love to see them too, but I’m particularly drawn to the ruins of the abbey & waterfall. Thanks for sharing, take care & hugs.

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  13. The abbey ruins are lovely and there’s more to them than I thought there would be so I got loads of good photos. The waterfall was quite spectacular with all the rain we’ve had recently but there was so much spray I couldn’t get too close to it.

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  14. Aside from the ship, which I’ve seen before, I hadn’t been to any of these places so it was good to look round somewhere new. The waterfall is only about a mile walk from the odd pet rescue camp site where I stayed last October but I didn’t get chance to go there then so it was nice to see it this time, especially with all the water that was coming over it.

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  15. I’ve been told South Wales is very nice but I like North Wales so much that I’m not really tempted to go south. These were lovely places to visit on my journey and never having been to any of them before I was quite impressed 🙂

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  16. Wow, some interesting places you came upon there Eunice. I need to go to Wales! The Well looks pretty amazing and so does the derelict ship. I wonder what will happen to it. Great waterfall shots too. X

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  17. As far as I know the ship is (hopefully) working its way to becoming an attraction again, as it was in the early 1980s. There was some sort of event held on the dock there last Christmas but I think there’s still a lot of legal wrangling going on over it. The ruined abbey and its surrounds are lovely and the well was amazing, definitely way beyond what I was expecting to see.

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  18. We’re so lucky to have so many wonderful places to visit in our country, we can visit an area many times and never run out of new things to see. St Winefred’s Chapel and Well looks fascinating, and what a bonus to have the chapel to yourself. That’s definitely a place I’ll put on my list if we visit North Wales again, we loved it when we visited previously. It must have been nice for you to meet up with Eileen again too.

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  19. It was lovely to meet up with Eileen again, she has become a good friend. The chapel was very quaint and the well was amazing – it far exceeded my expectations and was definitely worth visiting.

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  20. If I’m only away for a couple of days I like to stop on the journey to the camp site, that way it makes it more of a weekend and it’s always nice to explore somewhere I haven’t been before.

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  21. Thank you, I’m pleased you like the photos of the well. I’ll be doing a dedicated post on the chapel and shrine soon so there’ll be more photos on there.

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