A discovery walk on the Llyn Peninsula

Linking up with Jo’s Monday Walk this week, this is one I did while camping on Anglesey the year before last, and not only was it a very enjoyable walk but it also gave me a very delightful and unexpected surprise when I discovered something I’d previously been completely unaware of.
As always, when I’m on my travels I never go anywhere without my AA map book, and having consulted it before leaving the tent that morning I decided to go off the island and explore part of the the Llyn Peninsula. Marked on the map book was a place called Morfa Nefyn and a beach which I’d never previously been to, so I decided to check that out for any possible photo opportunities. Nefyn itself was quite a large spread out village with the main road running through it and I fully expected to see a sign for Morfa Nefyn somewhere but there was nothing, though I did eventually see a sign for ‘beach’ pointing down a long straight lane so that’s the way I went – and ended up in a golf course car park.
With no other signs around I was totally at a loss but as I stood wondering which way to go a couple who had obviously just finished a round of golf came to their nearby car, so I asked them where the beach was and was told to follow the gravel track across the golf course and a fifteen minute walk would take me to it. So off I went, and with the blue sky, sunshine and great views over the coastline to my left it was a very pleasant walk. Eventually the track split into two and down the short steeply sloping tarmac part to my right I could see a beach – I’d found what I thought I was looking for, but it was far more than just a beach.
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A view from the golf course
The track took me down behind a row of cottages on my left and at the bottom of the slope, almost on the beach itself, was a small parking area with just about enough space for half a dozen cars. When I emerged onto the sand I discovered a tiny and very pretty little hamlet with the cottages, three or four houses set in a small courtyard, and a pub/restaurant with an outside dining area, all set at the base of the cliff and within just a few feet of the beach – it was such a quaint, unexpected and out-of-the-way place offering plenty of photo opportunities and I was really glad I’d found it.
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Porth Dinllaen
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Cottages and Ty Coch Inn
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After spending quite some time wandering about taking photos I found a footpath leading round the headland at the end of the beach; there was a house in the distance at the water’s edge so I decided to go round as far as there. The footpath was quite narrow in places with bits of the edge missing where it had crumbled into the sea but I reached the house without mishap and after taking a few shots I retraced my steps back to the beach.
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Instead of going back up the track to the golf course I walked along the sand; four tractors with trailers were parked just above the high water line and once I’d got past those I had the beach almost to myself. Eventually my way was barred by a small headland jutting out into the sea and a path took me off the beach and through a tiny enclave of half a dozen cottages before leading me back onto the sand further along the bay. I was just hoping that there would be a way from there back to the golf club car park otherwise I would have a long walk back the other way but I needn’t have worried; the beach gradually became more populated and eventually I came to a concrete slope leading up to a tarmac lane, and after passing several houses I came out at the start of the long lane leading up to the golf club.
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Looking back at Porth Dinllaen – what you see is what you get
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Another house at the water’s edge
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Morfa Nefyn beach
Just up the lane was a cafe with a few tables outside; it was a good opportunity to stop for coffee and cake before returning to the van and it also gave me a chance to find out the name of the quaint little seaside hamlet I’d discovered. The beach I’d just come from was Morfa Nevyn, the one I was originally looking for, though somehow I’d missed the sign for it, and the hamlet was Porth Dinllaen. It seemed it was quite a popular little place, though I didn’t recall seeing it in the map book so a quick check when I got back to the van confirmed that it isn’t shown on the map.
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My walk, clockwise from yellow spot
Thinking back later on I was glad I’d missed the sign for Morfa Nevyn beach; Porth Dinllaen couldn’t be seen completely from there so if I’d found that beach first I may just have taken a couple of shots of it without going any further, and I would have missed a nice walk and some good photo opportunities in one of the most unusual places I’ve ever been to.
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10 thoughts on “A discovery walk on the Llyn Peninsula

  1. What a superb little spot you found, Eunice! I wonder how many of these kind of places still lie tucked away off the beaten track? I feel like packing my bags right now! Thanks for linking 🙂

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  2. It’s a gorgeous little place Jo and I was glad I found it. I planned on going back last year while I was on Anglesey but the weather was a bit hit-and-miss so I didn’t get the chance, but if I have the opportunity this year I’ll definitely make a return visit.

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  3. Husband and I tried to do this walk last year. We parked up in the golf club car park and set off on foot with a few cars passing us en route. There was a sign on the gate explaining that there was no access for vehicles and not to ask, which was puzzling indeed. We could see the little hamlet but realised it was just too far for husband to walk as he has mobility problems. Husband has a blue badge and we know for sure that certain vehicles definitely do use the path, so if we ever go again we will definitely ask. Just as you say, we also missed the sign for Morfa Nefyn beach so it can’t be that obvious.

    Your photos are lovely and I am envious that we never made it. We’ve seen the place on a documentary programme since returning home which is like rubbing salt in the wound 🙂 Thanks for adding the map to your blog post Eunice as it makes the route more clear to me, and it certainly is a lovely little hamlet with the Ty Coch Inn. A hidden gem indeed.

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  4. I remember you mentioning it on your previous blog Eileen; it’s such a shame you can’t get there as it’s a gorgeous little place.

    Although I understand the need not to allow vehicle access to the general public – there really is no room for cars down there so any vehicles you saw must have been residents – I’m sure it would be possible for the NT to negotiate with the golf club management to allow access on production of a blue badge. Maybe someone from the golf club could take visitors down by golf buggy – if a small charge was made for the privilege everyone would benefit. In these days of everything being so PC and people crying ‘discrimination’ at every opportunity it maybe a point worth taking up with the NT?

    The NT does actually have a 1-bed holiday cottage there and anyone staying there is allowed vehicle access. It could have been a nice option for you for a few days BUT dogs aren’t allowed in the cottage 😦

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    1. Thanks for stopping by Lisa, glad you like the photos. Porth Dinllaen is delightful and must be one of the most photogenic places I’ve ever been to. It’s set in the corner of a bay and seems fairly sheltered so maybe it isn’t affected too much by high tides – I’m sure people wouldn’t be too keen to live there if it was. Posting these photos on here has reminded me of what a lovely little place it is so I can’t wait to go back there now 🙂

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  5. I suppose people living there are used to rough weather – the Ty Coch Inn has a live webcam operating, you can’t see the cottages as it’s pointing out to sea but you can tell what the weather and sea conditions are like. It’s just after high tide now and though the sea is a bit rough it doesn’t seem to be reaching the wall; I wouldn’t like to be out in one of the little fishing boats though 😦

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  6. It’s a gorgeous little place but I suppose on a grey winter day it’s as miserable as anywhere else. Maybe the place doesn’t get too much bad weather though as it’s in quite a sheltered spot.

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